Tuesday, October 27, 2009


18-Karat Gold and Stainless Steel Propeller Rings
Schwerin Castle in Germany is a remarkable landmark that dates back to the 12th century.

Once a defensive stronghold, over the course of five centuries the structure has undergone several refurbishings and is presently a museum. Germany is also the home of featured jewelry designer Dorothea Brill.

German designer jewelry is renowned for its minimalist, contemporary attributes: clean lines with little or no embellishment.

In my research however, I have found various design approaches including the elaborate granulation pieces of Cornelia Goldsmith to the avant-garde designs of Constanze Schreiber. Although no two designers' creations are the same, I have found their approach to design, the experimentation with materials and techniques, is the same.

Brill's jewelry can be categorized as conceptual. Like fellow designer Michael Berger, she likes the "playful" aspect of jewelry creation. "Dealing with things in a playful manner has become the main thread of my work," she says. "Playfulness, to me, means staying on the risky path between seriousness and lightness, not allowing the work to become too serious or too trivial."

A graduate of Pforzheim University of Applied Sciences, and the Rhode Island School of Design, Brill's creations illustrate her openness to experimentation. There are her gold and stainless steel Propeller Rings with two intertwined, fan-shape discs extending from the area a gemstone would normally occupy.

There are nature-inspired pieces resembling straw, an interpretation of butterflies and flower petals. She implements 18-karat gold threads in her Roof, Terrace, Sun Rings adding a textile element, and lastly there is her Italian-style, mesh of tiny, gold loops creating her By the Meter Necklace.

"The most important thing in jewelry is liveliness," Brill explains. "It's possibility to carry fantasy and to evoke associations, and tempt the wearer away from conventional thinking welcoming them into a world of new ideas."
18-Karat Gold By the Meter Earrings with Pave Diamonds

In 2001, Brill founded JUNI JEWELS, a jewelry company enlisting the expertise of five European designers, including Brill.

The designers featured are: Claudia Geiger, Udo Jung, Patrick Malotki and Oliver Schmidt.  

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