Wednesday, May 22, 2013


.950 Silver Cradle of Love Rhondonite Cocktail Ring
Sharing the moniker of explorer Francisco Moreno, Argentina’s Perito Moreno Glacier is a 19-mile-long ice formation that forms an “ice field” with 48 adjoining glaciers.

The ice field is considered the “world’s third largest reserve of freshwater.”  Argentina is also the birthplace of featured jewelry designer Carmen Anocibar.

To echo the theme of this blog celebrity product placements or endorsements seen in popular magazines like People or Us Weekly is not a gauge I use to measure the talent or relevance of a jewelry designer.

For me the actual jewelry piece is a hushed testament to a jeweler’s aptitudes.  Strong design can stand on its own without the fanfare of celebrity.  The way a piece of jewelry is brought into existence—how the materials complement to build a wearable work of art sparked by any given source of inspiration is a revelation of the creative mind.

Peru-based Anocibar’s lucid design choices explore a plethora of different styles whether drop earrings, cocktail rings or pendant necklaces. 

I love the swirly Amazon Knot pendant necklace and ring designs fashioned respectively from 18-karat gold plating and Andean silver; the yarn-like rendering of her Flirt button earrings; and the basket-weave pattern of rhombuses of her sterling silver Wonder Bracelet.  Overall her design style is classic with flourishes of idiosyncrasy.

Choosing Andean (or .950) silver as her building block the formally trained silversmith embraces a decidedly Peruvian design approach.  Smooth, cabochon cuts of semi-precious gemstones such as pink rhodonite; mahogany obsidian; chrysocolla and sodalite are focal points.  Their glossy, opaque shades provide an alternate vibe of laid-back cool and elegant sophistication.

18K Gold Plated Amazon Knot Pendant Necklace (left); and Sterling
Silver White Amazon Knot Pendant Necklace with Cultured Pearl (right)
Anocibar’s gemstone heart pendant necklaces reflect the designer’s knowledge of gemstones.  For each pendant a delicate heart shape is carved from a different gemstone: black obsidian, chrysocolla and mahogany obsidian; and each convey a different message. 

“I chose feldspar for my Love Mysteries heart necklace in order to convey a sense of mystery and elegance whereas the black obsidian I use in my Love’s Conquest necklace conveys soft-heartedness and gentleness.” 

The fifty-two-year-old jeweler relocated to Peru with her husband and after a chance meeting with a friend, she began the journey to becoming a jewelry maker.

“Most of my life I have been dedicated to art both in teaching and crafting ceramics.  I was a ceramics professor at the Universidad Nacional de Misiones in Argentina.  When my husband’s job took us to Lima I met a friend who was taking jewelry classes.  I went with her to the academy one day and ever since I never missed a class,” she recalls.

“I became familiar with this wonderful Peruvian culture by visiting different cities to learn about ancient and modern techniques for working with a metal as beautiful as Andean silver.

I want to perpetuate the tradition of pre-Hispanic silversmiths.  I strive to transmit the contemporary with ethnic motifs.  I place a great deal of effort into each piece of jewelry.  It is so fulfilling.”
Sterling Silver Wonder Wristband Bracelet

2013 Jewelry Trend Alert:   Anocibar chooses several style trends including sterling silver as a canvas for colored, opaque gemstones (trend 2) that offset her cocktail rings (trend 3).
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