Tuesday, May 25, 2010


For many centuries, Italy's stunning Duomo di Milano (Milan Cathedral) remained in various stages of de-construction with engineering duties passing along to both French and Italian architects. Italy is also home to featured jewelry designer Daniela Boieri.

Before starting this blog, I expected jewelry to fit into certain criteria: shiny, gold, diamonds and clear form.

As I have continued my research, I have learned a lot about different design approaches that range from the sublime creations of Claudia Lob√£o (Brazil) to the bizarre, existential renderings of Hanna Hedman (Sweden). Variety is undoubtedly the spice of life . . . and jewelry making.

With a Bachelors of Art in Costume, Fashion, and Jewelry, acquired from the University of Florence, Boieri's jewelry is explorative in both her choice of materials, and design options. Its heart and beauty lie in its lack of conventional glamour.

Implementing such components as bone, sterling silver, Australian opals, porcelain, and 18-karat gold, her contemporary jewelry pieces are raw, irregular, and organic. The definitive focal point is form, abstract and non-descript. In my mind, within these vague proportions the materials seem to take on an illusory, unexpected appearance.

The gold is not high gloss but somewhat rough-hewn, the sterling silver is sultry black, creamy white or even gold-tone. "My choices of materials, every time, is like leaving for a journey without booking; a momentary marriage. I love the challenge of working with metal," she enthuses.

"Metal doesn't allow any uncertainty and I establish a type of dialogue that always brings me to solutions full of surprises."

I really love the stripped down look of Boieri's pieces. For good or bad whenever something is broken down to its rawer form it captures your attention.

Repulsion or attraction is the general reaction upon viewing something in its more vulnerable, open state. Where jewelry is concerned, rawer, abstract forms can be just as intriguing and powerful as high gloss and convention.

"When creating my pieces I believe that what happens by chance or what I try to find fills me with energy. I love this job in all its facets. Jewels are my illness and my cure."

Boieri regularly participates in exhibitions that span the globe including Germany, Italy, Israel, Holland, and the United States.
Photo 1 (top right): Sterling Silver Golden Leaf Casalmare Ring with Australian Raw Opal
Photo 2 (bottom left): Sterling Silver Boom Bracelet
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