Sterling Silver and Gold Fly Necklaces |
Second in height to Paris’ Eiffel Tower, the Odin Tower, located in Denmark’s third
largest city Odense, is one of many landmarks to see.
In addition, Odense has been the launching
ground for many renowned people including Hans Christian Andersen.
Denmark is also home to featured jewelry
designer Vibe Harslof.
To me Harslof’s playfully expressive aesthetic reflects that
creativity is a powerful motivator.
It is a type
of motivator that prompts her to allow any idea to come through her creative
gateway while never letting commerce dominate her artistic vision.
In turn, she asks the questions: What do I want to
express? How do I want to express
it? With such questions in place her creative
expression gives life to a distinctive and clear visual language that once
again proves any material has the potential to be great jewelry.
Though Harslof’s most recent collection Fools Gold is traditional in its simple, sleek outlines in gold and
silver the inspiration for her designs, however, is linked to the controversial
subculture of Japanese bondage known as kinbaku.
“Kinbaku is a way to tie up the body with thin ropes in very
intricate ways. I wanted to do a
simplified version in metal that both sweeps around and almost lock parts of
the body at the same time,” explains the goldsmith.
In her Beige, Fly and
Geometry collections she pairs
statement making attributes with classicism.
Wooden cubes dangle from sterling silver chains in the Geometry series.
Sterling Silver, Wood and Perspex Hand and Cloud Necklaces |
Ethereal, cutout
details of insect wings accentuate necklaces, cuff bracelets, and brooch pins
from the Fly series; and simple,
pretty gold chains are combined with cork balls in earrings, necklaces and
rings from the Beige series.
Quirky, unconventional cutout forms of Perspex take center
stage in her Hand Signs, Clouds, Ghost and
Feather collections. These child-like yet pretty designs are pure
conversation pieces in their unbridled oddness.
The dusky, spiky crystalline renderings of Harslof’s Black Crystal Collection made me think
of Ursa from Superman II in their
bold, sizeable and seemingly aggressive outlines.
Her alternately strange and sublime Facet Collection is straight out of a contemporary art piece
playbook. Wood is faceted into chunky,
octagonal rings and believe it or not smoking pipes accentuate headbands and
necklaces.
“The pipe items are a collaboration with an Old Danish pipe
manufacturer. The larger ones I use are
functional—you can smoke with them. The
smaller ones are not. They are for
decoration only,” reveals the seasoned veteran.
“My design philosophy is simple: my intent is to create
original jewelry. The look is clean and
pure but it challenges the established preconceptions of what constitutes an
accessory. I actually make all kinds of
accessories but jewelry is my favorite.
As a matter of fact I collaborated with Jules Kim of Bijules that will be launched this year
in New York. We combined a bracelet from
her new collection with a handbrace—my take on bracelets—from the Fools Gold Collection. It’s a beautiful piece. I am excited about the launch.”
Gold and Cork Beige Necklace |
Harslof’s one-of-a-kind design approach also includes trends of graphic layering, color pops and sterling silver.
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